Part 2: Buenos Aires

A great city. Lots to do, loads to see and plenty to come back to. Despite the madness of the city – pollution, smelly speedy buses, curb crawling cabs and 12-lane roads, I really liked Buenos Aires. It had a good feel to it.

The buildings are incredible – European style turrets, New York style art deco and some huge Victorian style tiled buildings often taking up a whole block. Full of detail and character, though sadly becoming a little dilapidated. The economy here is still dire and tourism seems to keep a lot of places going. The gap between rich and poor is shocking - some very affluent people here and desperate poverty. On the whole I feel safe here, different to Ecuador etc, more European than native Indian. Though like the rest of South America they do like their marches and demos.

Our first day in BA was the Thursday before Easter – there was a HUGE demonstration against the government. The protest was against the present government for doing nothing to punish those involved in the ‘dirty war’ of the 70s. This was when the military were in charge (again) and a lot of people ‘disappeared’, they were tortured and murdered, bodies discarded in the local river all for disagreeing with those in charge. As with all South American countries this is just as politically corrupt and unstable, and yes, I read up on my history including the unbelievably corrupt dictatorship of Evita and Peron. The other march we saw here was much more peaceful and pleasant! Again it seemed as though the whole of BA had taken to the streets but this time on the eve of Good Friday when the church service was led through the city streets. Thousands of people chanting and praying all with lit candles. Quite humbling.

Aside from Catholicism the other religion here is football – they are mad for it. They actually believe Maradona was sent by God to play football for them. Footy fans amongst you will of course know the Argentinean team he played for – Boca Juniors. To see this religion in action we went to a Boca Juniors game at their stadium and the fans put our fans to shame. All age groups actually jump up and down, chant and cheer throughout the whole game – a good way to keep fit, and god knows how the stadium stands it! When Maradona arrived to watch the game from his box the whole stadium went wild, including the opposition. All the photographers were facing him with their backs to the players coming out onto the pitch! No wonder he went slightly crazy. It was a great experience. It’s also fun watching the England games on TV, the commentators are barking, making up songs about the players and giving them nick-names. For example, ‘El Baby Rooney’, ‘Spice Boy’ (Beckham), and ‘Boy Wonder’ (Owen).

Other than sport I have taken in a bit of culture too. I was lucky enough to be in BA for the Independent Film Festival and saw a not-so-good Hal Hartley film and a couple of good Canadian films including ‘The Corporation’ – a must see in my view. To top that I went to my first opera, Verdi’s ‘Lombards in the First Crusade’ at Teatro Colon. It’s supposed to be one of the best opera houses in the world and I have to agree from my limited knowledge – a vast space, beautifully decorated, everyone really dressed up. Best of all was it’s accessibility – it was only 20 quid for a ticket which in London would have cost over 120. …the opera itself was great too.

That’s almost up to date from me! The other bit of news is that Ben and I have decided to go our separate ways which is difficult and sad, but it obviously wasn’t meant to be. I’m doing OK though. Arrived in Iguazu Falls for some time to myself then off to Brazil on Saturday to meet the girls!